Tag Archives: creme fraiche

Raspberry Dutch Baby

13 Monday Aug 2012

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Monday morning of our second week of school dawned stormy and gray, not the best encouragement to get out of bed for little bodies still on their sleepy summertime schedule. This Raspberry Dutch Baby was the perfect way to brighten up the start of our day. A dutch baby is a cross between a pancake and a popover, eggy and fruity, with a hint of sweetness and cinnamon. It comes together in five minutes, but between the golden brown dome and a sprinkling of powdered sugar, it makes morning feel like a special occasion.

In the summer, you can easily substitute blueberries or peach slices for the raspberries, and it tastes lovely with apples or pears in the fall. For another yummy variation, try substituting ground nutmeg and ginger for the cinnamon. We like ours with a dollop of creme fraiche on top, but vanilla yogurt or whipped cream work as well. Guaranteed morning sunshine, regardless of the weather. :)

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Raspberry Dutch Baby
serves 6-8

1 c. raspberries, rinsed
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided
3 large eggs
1/2 c. milk
1/2 c. all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
dash of salt
a few teaspoons powdered sugar to sift over the top
a few teaspoons creme fraiche or vanilla yogurt to serve

Oven 450F. Cut the butter into two pieces and place in small glass or ceramic baking dish. (I use either a 9″x6″ oval or a 9″-round dish.) Place the dish in the preheated oven for the butter to melt while you finish the remaining steps, about five minutes.

In a small bowl, mix the raspberries with two tablespoons of the sugar, breaking up a few of the berries so they better release their juices, and set aside. In a blender, mix remaining tablespoon of sugar, eggs, milk, flour, cinnamon, vanilla, and salt. Blend on medium speed for one minute, until thoroughly mixed and a bit frothy.

Carefully remove the hot baking dish from the oven and pour in the batter. Scatter the berries and their juice over the top, then place in oven and bake 17-18 minutes, until edges are puffed and golden brown and center is completely set. (My oven cooks a bit hotter toward the front, so I rotate the dish halfway through.)

Sift powdered sugar over the top and serve immediately with a dollop of creme fraiche or yogurt on top. This does not save well, so be generous. :)

Recipe Notes:
If you would like to use a cup of thinly sliced apples or pears instead of berries, then the directions change slightly. While the butter is melting in the baking dish in the oven, toss the fruit with two tablespoons sugar, an extra 1/4 tsp. of ground cinnamon, and a grating of fresh nutmeg. Arrange the fruit slices evenly in the melted butter and bake for 10-12 minutes, until softened. Prepare the batter as directed above, then pour over the cooked sliced fruit. Bake 17-18 minutes more, then serve as described for the berry version.

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Boston Cream Cupcakes with Crème Fraîche Ganache

16 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by in Cook, Read

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Last week’s recipe for a summery Blueberry Tart left me with some extra pastry cream on hand, and this recipe is the perfect way to use it. These are a more easily-served version of Boston Cream Pie, which is in fact not a pie at all, but instead layers of golden yellow butter cake and vanilla pastry cream, enrobed in a layer of chocolate ganache. The overall effect is impressive, right until you try to cut into it. (There is a reason custard is not commonly used as an ingredient in sturdy foundations.)

As messes go, it’s a delicious one, but not quite the dessert to hand to small children at a birthday party. The cupcake version is altogether more practical, and still just as indulgent. I leave it to you to make a batch of a dozen cupcakes from your favorite yellow cake recipe. I like this classic butter cake or this golden vanilla cake from King Arthur Flour’s web site. However, any recipe will do, as long as it’s moist and yummy. The pastry cream recipe is found here, used as the filling of the tart.

That leaves the chocolate ganache topping, and for me, that has to be Creme Fraiche Ganache from the beautiful cookbook Rose’s Heavenly Cakes by Rose Leavy Beranbaum. Beranbaum is most famous for The Cake Bible; written two decades ago, it is still an enduringly authoritative guide to making cakes that are scrumptious to see and taste. Rose’s Heavenly Cakes continues in the same literate, informed vein, and her recipes and directions are superb.

The end result of all these parts and pieces is buttery, creamy, chocolatey: all the words I love in a dessert recipe. Make no mistake, this is a sweet treat, but the Creme Fraiche Ganache adds just the right hint of tangy depth to balance the rich custard filling. These were my son’s birthday pick this year, and I think he made a wonderful choice.

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Creme Fraiche Ganache
makes 1 1/3 cups, enough to frost 12 cupcakes

6 oz. quality semisweet chocolate
2/3 c. creme fraiche
4 tsp. heavy cream
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract

In a food processor, blitz the chocolate until chopped very fine. In a pourable 2-cup microwave-safe measuring cup, whisk together the creme fraiche and heavy cream and heat until scalding; small bubbles will form around the edges of the cream mixture, about 90 seconds in my microwave. (This can also be done in a small saucepan over medium heat.)

With the motor of the food processor running, pour the cream mixture through the tube into the chocolate in a steady stream. Process a few seconds until smooth, then add the butter and vanilla and pulse until combined. Transfer the ganache to a glass bowl and allow to sit at room temperature for an hour. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to cool until firm enough to use as frosting, several more hours at least. The ganache will keep three days at room temperature or three weeks covered and refrigerated.

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To assemble cupcakes:
Using a paring knife, cut a cone-shaped piece out of the top of each cupcake, a little over an inch across and tapering to a point about an inch deep. Put a heaping spoonful of pastry cream in each little divot, then replace the cake cone. (I push mine in so that some pastry cream seeps out the side and is visible on the edges of the cupcake after frosting. If you’d prefer that your cream filling stay a surprise, gently replace the plug so that your cupcake has a more sloped top.)

Gently frost the top of each cupcake with a generous slathering of ganache, then top as desired with sprinkles or shave chocolate, or just leave pristine. These are fine to sit out for a few hours, but refrigerate the cupcakes, well-wrapped, if saving overnight. The ganache will thicken and lose its glossy sheen once refrigerated, but the cupcakes still taste delicious.

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(Wiley: 2009; ISBN 978-0471781738)

Spring Green Fritatta with Heirloom Tomato Salad

17 Tuesday Apr 2012

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Thursday nights seem caught in perpetual dinnertime limbo. There are too many leftovers to make another elaborate meal, and the end of the work week is tantalizingly close. Thursdays require something simple and quick that makes use of the extras in the refrigerator, but still satisfying enough to fuel that last push toward the weekend. A little culinary immediate gratification is a welcome sight.

All of which makes Thursday nights the ideal time for a fritatta, a sort of hybrid omelette/crustless quiche. Golden, rich, and hearty, it is a dish that comes together quickly and allows for plenty of creative adaptation based on what’s available in the fridge and pantry. This one incorporates three of my seasonal favorites: the first fresh zucchini, bright green peas, and a few sprightly spring onions. Although I used parmesan, any cheese will do here, from mild, milky mozzarella to the nutty smokiness of Gruyere. I have to say, there is simple kitchen magic in topping a hot fritatta with a freshly grated flurry of parmesan snow, white and light, melting almost as soon as it touches the eggy surface.

This recipe is vegetarian, and for me, that healthy dose of nutritious green also feels like a good fit before the weekend begins. However, you could easily add a handful of cooked bacon or ham, if your carnivorous instincts demand satisfaction. The topping is a zingy, sweet-tart salad made of yellow heirloom tomatoes seasoned simply and generously with olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and garlic. It brings a much-needed acid punch to the party, balancing out the richness of so much egg, cream, and cheese.

Feel free to substitute your own vegetable choices: mushrooms or potatoes in place of the zucchini; chard or spinach rather than green peas; diced red onion and bell pepper instead of scallions. You can also adjust the herbs; rosemary, tarragon, and dill all play beautifully with eggs and cheese. That is the beauty of a fritatta, so friendly and accommodating, spontaneous and undemanding: the perfect Thursday night dinner guest.

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Spring Green Fritatta with Heirloom Tomato Salad
makes eight generous wedges

For fritatta:
5 scallions or one large green onion, white bulb finely chopped and green tops thinly sliced
3 zucchini, preferably organic, chopped into bite-size chunks
1 c. cooked green peas (fresh or frozen, whatever you have on hand)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tsp. coarse sea or kosher salt
3/4 tsp. ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
2 tsp. dried or 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil
1/2 tsp. dried or 1 tsp. fresh thyme
juice of half a lemon
2 Tbsp. olive oil
10 large eggs
1/2 c. creme fraiche, all-natural sour cream, or heavy cream
1/2 c. freshly grated parmesan (or other cheese of your choice) plus more for topping/serving

For tomato salad:
1 very large or two medium heirloom tomatoes, cut into bite-size chunks
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2-1 tsp. coarse sea or kosher salt (adjust amount to taste)
1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
sliced top of one green scallion
1/4 c. olive oil, preferably extra virgin
3 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar (if using unseasoned rice vinegar, add 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar to salad to balance tartness of vinegar and highlight natural sweetness of tomatoes)

Oven 450F. In large, nonstick sauté pan with curved sides, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add zucchini, onion, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper, and cook until zucchini is tender but still crunchy in the center, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and drain off extra liquid released from zucchini. Stir in lemon juice, nutmeg, herbs, and cooked peas.

While veggies are cooking, beat together eggs, creme fraiche (or dairy product of your choice), remaining teaspoon of salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper in large mixing bowl. Whisk until mixture is creamy yellow and evenly combined. Stir in cheese.

Return pan of cooked veggies to medium-high heat and pour over egg mixture. Stir briefly, just enough to distribute veggies evenly in egg. Allow to cook on stovetop until edges are just set, a quick minute or two, then immediately transfer to oven. (Quick tip: if your pan has plastic handles, wrap them with a double layer of aluminum foil before baking.) Cook for 20-25 minutes, until center is set but not firm, and top is golden brown. Remove from oven and grate on more cheese as desired. Allow to cool 2-3 minutes, then gently slide fritatta out on to serving platter. (You may have to loosen the edges slightly before removing from pan — just arm yourself with a spatula and proceed confidently.)

While fritatta is baking, mix all tomato salad ingredients in a medium mixing bowl and toss well. Cover and allow to sit at room temperature until fritatta is ready. (Never purchase chilled tomatoes or store them in the refrigerator; refrigeration causes an immediate, permanent breakdown of the chemicals that give tomatoes flavor.) Taste once more for seasoning before serving.

To plate, slice warm fritatta into eighths and top each wedge with a generous spoonful of tomato salad. Serve with a chunk of crusty bread, preferably warmed and buttered, and enter Friday with a happy, full belly. :)

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Ginger-Vanilla Bean Cake with Sunset Oranges and Creme Fraiche

17 Saturday Mar 2012

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I made this cake for the first time last year to celebrate a dear friend’s March birthday, and it was so yummy that I made it again two days later when we had friends over for dinner. When citrus season rolled in early this year, I knew exactly which recipe to reach for. This is one of those desserts that instantly conveys special occasion. It is so sunny and bright on both the plate and the palate, and I love the pops of gingery heat. Normally cake without frosting is frowned upon in my household (whereas frosting without cake seems to be accepted just fine), but the fruit and cream on top are a perfect, not-too-sweet foil to the moist, vanilla bean-flecked cake below.

The glazed fruit on top is made from equal parts blood oranges and their regular navel counterparts. Blood oranges sound a bit macabre, but the name is only a reference to the deep red of the pulp and juice. Blood oranges are more tender and juicy than regular oranges, and they have a floral finish that reminds me of the scent of orange blossoms. My favorites are the ones with segments that fade from pale orange to crimson, like a perfect, edible sunset.

I first encountered the idea of pairing oranges and creme fraiche as a cake topping in the culinary memoir A Homemade Life by blogger/author Molly Wizenberg, and then happily adapted it to include blood oranges. The ginger-vanilla bean cake is my own recipe, a lighter take on pound cake in texture, ratios, and labor involved. Don’t let the ingredient list discourage you: if blood oranges are not in season (it’s a small window from late February to late March), feel free to substitute tangerines, regular oranges, or any other citrus you like. If you cannot find creme fraiche, use all-natural sour cream sweetened with a drizzle of honey. This cake is like culinary springtime, minus all the bad weather. :)

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Ginger-Vanilla Bean Cake with Sunset Oranges and Creme Fraiche
makes 12 generous portions

For cake:
3 eggs
1/3 c. milk
1/3 c. vanilla Greek yogurt
1 c. granulated sugar or vanilla sugar (see recipe notes here to make your own)
1 Tbsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2 c. cake flour (I use Swans Down brand)
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt, not coarse
1/2 c. unsalted butter (1 stick), softened
1/3 c. finely chopped crystallized ginger or baking ginger chips

For topping:
5 blood oranges
5 navel oranges
1/2 c. granulated sugar (less if using tangerines or very sweet oranges — blood oranges are more tart)
8 oz. creme fraiche

Oven 350F (325F if using dark nonstick pan). Grease 9″-round springform pan, place a parchment paper round in the bottom, then grease the parchment. (To make a parchment round, trace around the base of the pan on a sheet of parchment, then cut slightly inside the line.) In small bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, and yogurt and set aside. Put sugar, vanilla, cake flour, baking powder, and salt in large mixing bowl and whisk until combined. Cut softened butter into tablespoon-size pieces and cream into dry ingredients with electric mixer until thoroughly mixed. Add egg mixture and beat with electric mixer until batter is light, thick, and airy, about 3-5 minutes.

Stir in ginger bits with silicone spatula, then spread batter in prepared pan. Bake 30-40 minutes, until top is golden and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool on rack 15 minutes, then release sides from pan and flip cake out on to cooling rack. Remove parchment round and turn cake right-side up. Allow to cool completely.

While the cake bakes, suprème the oranges. This involves slicing off the peel and pith and then cutting out the segments so that you have only the flesh without the membranes between each. (Here is a 30-second video by Chef Michael Symon demonstrating how.) This is the most labor-intensive part of the whole recipe, but it is so worth it. If you have never tried this technique before, start with the navel oranges, as they are easier to work with than the more tender, juicier blood oranges. Once you get into a rhythm, it goes faster, but it helps to have someone to talk with to pass the time. (Or a kind friend to do it for you — thanks, Jason!)

Place the segments in a medium saucepan, then squeeze all the juice out of the leftover membranes and add it to the segments. Add the granulated sugar and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves completely; the oranges should be warmed through and the juice slightly reduced. Do not allow to come to a rolling boil. Set glazed oranges aside to cool until not piping hot.

When ready to serve, slice the cake into twelve slices. Top each wedge with a spoonful of warm glazed oranges and juice, then drizzle with a tablespoon of creme fraiche. Store any leftover cake wrapped tightly and then placed in an airtight container. Oranges should be stored in the refrigerator, but can be re-warmed before serving.

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Creamy Butternut and Sausage Pasta

05 Thursday Jan 2012

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I am not even using the word “squash” in the title of this recipe because it’s not fair. People see that word, and they think baby food: stringy, overcooked, bland… they think “I hate squash.” My 14-year-old son has certainly uttered those words before, and he came back for seconds of this pasta.

Instead of squash, think about the word “butternut.” Now that’s more like it. This pasta is creamy, buttery, smooth, and nutty. A little kick from smoky cayenne amps up both color and taste, and the natural sweetness of butternut (squash) is the perfect foil to the savory garlic and fennel of Italian sausage.

This pasta is also a great way to start the new year, especially after weeks of holiday over-indulgence. This isn’t the kind of food that wreaks of diets and deprivation, but rather the sort we should really be eating every day: balanced, tasty, and nourishing. It is a warming, hearty helping of fiber, vitamins A and C, potassium, and heart-healthy omega fatty acids. You can also opt for turkey Italian sausage and skim ricotta to keep it lower in fat, or add even more fiber and vitamins with whole wheat pasta. I eat it because it tastes good, but I enjoy it more because I know it’s good for me.

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Creamy Butternut and Sausage Pasta
makes 8 servings

2 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1″ chunks
1 1/4 lbs. bulk Italian sausage (mild or spicy based on your preference)
1 lb. rigatoni or other large tube- or shell-shaped pasta
2 tsp. coarse salt + more for pasta water
1 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. cayenne (adjust to preference)
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
3 tbsp. roasted walnut oil (see Recipe Notes, can substitute olive oil)
3 tbsp. real maple syrup (can substitute 2 tsp. turbinado sugar — do not use artificially flavored pancake syrup)
1 tsp. dried thyme (or 2 tbsp. chopped fresh)
1 tsp. dried basil (or 2 tbsp. chopped fresh)
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 c. grated Parmesan or other favorite hard cheese + more for serving
1/2 c. creme fraiche, heavy cream, or ricotta (your choice)
a few ladles of pasta water, about a cup

Oven 425F. In roasting pan, toss squash cubes with walnut oil, maple syrup, salt, pepper, paprika, and cayenne. Roast for 40-45 minutes, stirring once halfway through, until tender and caramelized on the edges.

While squash is roasting, boil pasta in salted water in a large stockpot. (Quick tip: heavily salted water is key to avoiding bland pasta. I use about a tablespoon of coarse salt for every pound of pasta; the finished noodles taste more flavorful, not salty.) Cook for a minute or two less than pasta package directions indicate, as you’ll be cooking it further in the sauce later. I used pipe rigate from World Market, but any large pasta will do. Tube and shell shapes are ideal because in stirring, they stuff themselves with the thick, chunky sauce.

Multi-tasking alert: while the squash is roasting and the pasta is boiling, crumble the Italian sausage in a large skillet and cook on medium-high heat. As sausage begins to brown, add thyme, basil, and garlic and cook two minutes more. Total cooking time will vary depending on water/fat content of your sausage; mine takes about ten minutes. Drain sausage well on paper towels. Finish by feeling generally efficient and handy in the kitchen for doing three things at once. ;)

Reserve a few ladles full of pasta water, then drain pasta and return to pot. (Pasta water already contains starch and salt, which make it the perfect liquid to add to pasta sauce.) Add cooked sausage and roasted squash, including the scented, brilliant orange oil from the bottom of the roasting pan. Stir in Parmesan and whatever you chose as your creamy element (creme fraiche, cream, or ricotta) and warm through over medium heat. Add pasta water as needed to make a rich, creamy sauce; you’ll need more if you opted for ricotta. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as desired. I serve mine with a sprinkling of extra cheese, a mixed green side salad, and a chunk of whole wheat bread.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Have I mentioned lately how much I love roasted walnut oil? It is all the best of walnuts — complex, nutty flavor and a heart-healthy punch of omega fatty acids — without the bitter aftertaste. It goes beautifully with leafy greens, root vegetables, and squash, as well as pork and chicken. You won’t find a better partner for strongly flavored cheeses ranging from Parmesan to Stilton. It is perfection with roasted beets and feta, or added to honey mustard vinaigrette, but its uses are hardly limited to the savory. I love the subtle nuttiness it brings to chocolate cake and banana bread; the scent of a few drops warmed in the pan transforms pancakes and french toast. Roasted walnut oil also compliments fruit, especially citrus.

I use La Tourangelle Roasted Walnut Oil, and it can be purchased at some grocery stores, T.J. Maxx (if you get lucky), the La Tourangelle web site, or in 3-packs on Amazon. Regardless of the brand, I have learned from experience that it is vital that the bottle say “toasted” or “roasted” walnut oil; walnut oil pressed from unroasted nuts has none of the scent, warmth, or flavor.

Roasted walnut oil is one of those pantry-building ingredients that will amaze you with its versatility. It responds well to higher heat, and it can be substituted in equal measure in recipes calling for canola or olive oil. Obviously it should not be eaten by those with nut allergies, and I never make gifts with it unless I have already asked the recipient about food sensitivities/allergies. Assuming that doesn’t apply to you, try it and let me know what you think. :)

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