Category Archives: Cook

Peanut Butter Fudge Bars

26 Monday Mar 2012

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Disclaimer: I don’t generally hold with the notion that there is such a thing as “bad” food, at least not the ones that nature created. As with most things in life, it is the extremes that will get you in trouble. A healthy diet is balanced, both in amounts and types of food, and pays attention to what our bodies require.

I also find that the quickest way to make a human being want something is to declare it off-limits. Unless dietary constraints based on health issues prevent you from eating sugar or fat, I don’t think there is anything wrong with indulging in a reasonable portion size of dessert. I love to bake, and I love to share what I bake, and I would have a hard time giving up either. Preparing food and feeding myself and others nurtures me, both body and soul, and that feels very right to me.

Okay, I felt the need to say all that first so that I can now quite contradictorily say these Peanut Butter Fudge Bars are BAD. They are so full of fat and sugar that whoever invented the recipe for the King Arthur Flour Baker’s Companion ought to blush. These cookie bars do happen to taste fantastic, in a rich, over-the-top sort of way, but that was not my real motivation for choosing them. Mainly, I made this recipe because I had two extra kiddos in the house who absolutely love chocolate and peanut butter in all its forms, and I had a surplus of white baking chips left over from the holidays.

I could pretend that the protein in the peanut butter somehow balances out the multiple sources of sugar, or take heart in the fact that I cut them into tiny servings. If it helps you sleep better at night, I could note that all four children who ate them are very healthy and spent hours playing outside every day during their visit. The truth is, I fell right off the balanced diet wagon into a pool of peanut butter frosting and white chocolate-studded fudge brownie. If you want to join me there, the recipe is below. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you. :)

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Peanut Butter Fudge Bars
makes 36 small bars

For crust:
1/4 c. unsalted butter (1/2 stick), softened
1/3 c. creamy peanut butter
3/4 c. granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour (I use King Arthur)

For fudge filling:
3/4 c. semisweet chocolate chips
1/2 c. unsalted butter (1 stick), softened
1/2 tsp. salt (not coarse)
1/4 c. golden syrup or light corn syrup (read more about golden syrup here)
1 c. plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 c. all-purpose flour
2 eggs
1/2 c. white chocolate chips

For frosting:
3/4 c. white chocolate chips
1/4 c. creamy peanut butter
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)
1/4 c. mini-chocolate chips to sprinkle on top (optional)

Oven 350F. First the crust: in medium mixing bowl, beat together butter and peanut butter with electric mixer until soft and creamy. Stir in the sugar, salt, and vanilla until thoroughly combined. Mix in the flour until you have a slightly dry, crumbly dough. Press the dough into a lightly greased 9″x13″ glass baking dish. (It helps to put a sheet of plastic wrap between your hands and the dough.) Bake 8-10 minutes, until lightly brown at the edges. Remove from oven, but leave oven turned on.

While the crust is baking, start on the filling. In a medium microwave-safe bowl, microwave the semi-sweet chocolate chips, butter, salt, and golden/corn syrup until chocolate is melted. Stop and stir with a silicone spatula after first minute, and then every 30 seconds afterward to prevent over-cooking. Stir in sugar and flour until mixed, then beat in the eggs one at a time until well-combined. Fold in white chocolate chips, then pour filling on to baked crust and bake for 22-24 minutes. The top will be shiny and set, but don’t overbake — you want to keep a fudgy texture.

While the bars bake the second time, make the frosting by melting the white chocolate chips in the microwave, then stir in the peanut butter and salt until creamy and smooth. Spread the frosting over the baked, warm cookie bars using a silicone spatula, then sprinkle with mini-chocolate chips if desired. (I mean, really, why hold back now?) Allow bars to cool completely before cutting, then cut into roughly 1-1/2″x2″ bars (six rows both directions).

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Ginger-Vanilla Bean Cake with Sunset Oranges and Creme Fraiche

17 Saturday Mar 2012

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I made this cake for the first time last year to celebrate a dear friend’s March birthday, and it was so yummy that I made it again two days later when we had friends over for dinner. When citrus season rolled in early this year, I knew exactly which recipe to reach for. This is one of those desserts that instantly conveys special occasion. It is so sunny and bright on both the plate and the palate, and I love the pops of gingery heat. Normally cake without frosting is frowned upon in my household (whereas frosting without cake seems to be accepted just fine), but the fruit and cream on top are a perfect, not-too-sweet foil to the moist, vanilla bean-flecked cake below.

The glazed fruit on top is made from equal parts blood oranges and their regular navel counterparts. Blood oranges sound a bit macabre, but the name is only a reference to the deep red of the pulp and juice. Blood oranges are more tender and juicy than regular oranges, and they have a floral finish that reminds me of the scent of orange blossoms. My favorites are the ones with segments that fade from pale orange to crimson, like a perfect, edible sunset.

I first encountered the idea of pairing oranges and creme fraiche as a cake topping in the culinary memoir A Homemade Life by blogger/author Molly Wizenberg, and then happily adapted it to include blood oranges. The ginger-vanilla bean cake is my own recipe, a lighter take on pound cake in texture, ratios, and labor involved. Don’t let the ingredient list discourage you: if blood oranges are not in season (it’s a small window from late February to late March), feel free to substitute tangerines, regular oranges, or any other citrus you like. If you cannot find creme fraiche, use all-natural sour cream sweetened with a drizzle of honey. This cake is like culinary springtime, minus all the bad weather. :)

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Ginger-Vanilla Bean Cake with Sunset Oranges and Creme Fraiche
makes 12 generous portions

For cake:
3 eggs
1/3 c. milk
1/3 c. vanilla Greek yogurt
1 c. granulated sugar or vanilla sugar (see recipe notes here to make your own)
1 Tbsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2 c. cake flour (I use Swans Down brand)
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt, not coarse
1/2 c. unsalted butter (1 stick), softened
1/3 c. finely chopped crystallized ginger or baking ginger chips

For topping:
5 blood oranges
5 navel oranges
1/2 c. granulated sugar (less if using tangerines or very sweet oranges — blood oranges are more tart)
8 oz. creme fraiche

Oven 350F (325F if using dark nonstick pan). Grease 9″-round springform pan, place a parchment paper round in the bottom, then grease the parchment. (To make a parchment round, trace around the base of the pan on a sheet of parchment, then cut slightly inside the line.) In small bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, and yogurt and set aside. Put sugar, vanilla, cake flour, baking powder, and salt in large mixing bowl and whisk until combined. Cut softened butter into tablespoon-size pieces and cream into dry ingredients with electric mixer until thoroughly mixed. Add egg mixture and beat with electric mixer until batter is light, thick, and airy, about 3-5 minutes.

Stir in ginger bits with silicone spatula, then spread batter in prepared pan. Bake 30-40 minutes, until top is golden and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool on rack 15 minutes, then release sides from pan and flip cake out on to cooling rack. Remove parchment round and turn cake right-side up. Allow to cool completely.

While the cake bakes, suprème the oranges. This involves slicing off the peel and pith and then cutting out the segments so that you have only the flesh without the membranes between each. (Here is a 30-second video by Chef Michael Symon demonstrating how.) This is the most labor-intensive part of the whole recipe, but it is so worth it. If you have never tried this technique before, start with the navel oranges, as they are easier to work with than the more tender, juicier blood oranges. Once you get into a rhythm, it goes faster, but it helps to have someone to talk with to pass the time. (Or a kind friend to do it for you — thanks, Jason!)

Place the segments in a medium saucepan, then squeeze all the juice out of the leftover membranes and add it to the segments. Add the granulated sugar and simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves completely; the oranges should be warmed through and the juice slightly reduced. Do not allow to come to a rolling boil. Set glazed oranges aside to cool until not piping hot.

When ready to serve, slice the cake into twelve slices. Top each wedge with a spoonful of warm glazed oranges and juice, then drizzle with a tablespoon of creme fraiche. Store any leftover cake wrapped tightly and then placed in an airtight container. Oranges should be stored in the refrigerator, but can be re-warmed before serving.

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Island Devil’s Food Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting and Coconut Caramel Drizzle

05 Monday Mar 2012

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When my husband, Landon, was in kindergarten, someone’s mother brought a batch of coconut cupcakes to share with the class to celebrate her child’s birthday. Landon had never had coconut before, but he knew a thing or two about baked goods, and he positively drooled over the mounds of fluffy white frosting and clouds of coconut. When his turn came, he eagerly stuffed a bite in his mouth, and then proceeded to experience one of the biggest culinary disappointments of his little life. It seemed someone had accidentally switched out his precious cupcake with a mouthful of dry grass, possibly mixed with bits of shredded string. After he was done retching and spitting (I’m sure the mom and teacher just loved that), he was left with one resounding sentiment: I hate coconut.

Finally, three decades later, comes coconut’s redemption. This recipe was inspired by a bag of coconut flour I spied in the baking aisle at Whole Foods. Coconut flour is made of finely ground dried coconut, so it carries the fruit’s sweet aroma without the fibrous texture. Apparently, it also transforms fairly good cake into something so ridiculously moist that you feel the need to talk with your mouth full in order to urge others to eat it too: “Seriously, mmfff, you have got to try this!”

This recipe started life years ago as one from a King Arthur Flour catalogue, but it doesn’t bear much resemblance to the original now. Coconut flour requires extra liquid, so I figured I might as well stick with the theme and use coconut milk. I think the combination of the two is what is responsible for the tender, almost-melting texture — although frankly, after the first bite, you won’t really care. Their diminutive size and the tang of the cream cheese frosting make it a little more reasonable to finish the tops with a drizzle of caramel, in which I also substituted coconut milk for the regular old cow kind.

You would think something with coconut products present in triplicate would be absolutely redolent with its flavor, but somehow these cupcakes manage to come out only barely scented of the stuff. I did feel the need to nod to the coconut flour in the recipe name, but you really wouldn’t know it was there if I didn’t tell you. In other words, this is the perfect recipe for people conditioned by years of shredded coconut with the mouth-feel of lawn clippings. As an added plus, coconut flour has more fiber and vitamins than wheat flour, and it’s a great alternative for people who eat gluten-free. Something that tastes better than it should, transforms the food it’s in, and is good for you to boot: that’s the kind of culinary alchemy that keeps me happily inventing and baking. Now, seriously, mmmfff, you have got to try these… ;)

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Island Devil’s Food Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting and Coconut Caramel Drizzle
makes about 90 mini-cupcakes

For the cake:
3/4 c. unsalted butter, softened (12 Tbsp. or 1 1/2 sticks)
1 c. demerara sugar (also called turbinado or raw sugar, see these recipe notes for more info)
3/4 c. granulated sugar
3/4 tsp. salt, not coarse
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2 tsp. espresso powder (optional, enhances the depth of the chocolate flavor)
1 c. all-purpose flour (I prefer King Arthur)
1 c. coconut flour
1 c. unsweetened cocoa powder
4 eggs
one 14 oz.-can coconut milk plus enough regular milk to equal 2 1/2 cups

For frosting:
8 oz. cream cheese, softened
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened (3/4 stick)
4 c. powdered sugar, sifted
1/2 tsp. salt, not coarse
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2 Tbsp. coconut milk or regular milk

For caramel:
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 c. demerara sugar
1 c. coconut milk
1/2 tsp. salt, not coarse

Oven 350F. Use electric mixer to blend butter, demerara sugar, granulated sugar, salt, baking soda, vanilla, and espresso powder until light and fluffy, 5 or 6 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a silicone spatula once or twice to be sure it blends evenly. Meanwhile, in a medium mixing bowl, whisk together both types of flour and cocoa and set aside.

Add the can of coconut milk to a large measuring cup, then add regular milk until it totals 2 1/2 cups. Now whisk them together until evenly mixed. (The coconut milk always separates in the can. Don’t let this put you off, it’s just the water coming out of the thicker part of the fruit puree.) Add a third of the flour mixture to the cake batter, then mix well. Add half the milk, then mix again. Alternate this way until all ingredients are completed blended into a thick, fragrant batter.

Line a mini-muffin tin with paper liners, then put one teaspoon of batter in each cup. (I use a small ice-cream scoop for this.) Bake mini-cupcakes for 12-13 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with the faintest hint of moist crumbs. Let cool in pan for one minute, then transfer to baking rack to cool completely. Repeat as needed until all batter is baked, about four batches for my 24-cupcake pan.

While the cupcakes bake, make the caramel. Cook the butter, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat, whisking constantly, until sugar melts (3-4 minutes). Carefully pour in the coconut milk — it will bubble and splash furiously, so be careful that you don’t get burned. Some of the melted sugar may solidify in the bottom of the pan or on the whisk. Every time I make caramel, this is the moment that I have doubts, but trust chemistry and soldier on. Keep stirring constantly as it simmers over low heat for seven minutes (use a timer, no skimping). The caramel will smooth and thicken. Turn off the heat, stir in the vanilla, and leave in the pan to cool.

While the caramel and cupcakes cool, it’s time for frosting. Put the butter, cream cheese, vanilla, and salt in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until lighter and thoroughly mixed, 2-3 minutes. Add half the sifted powdered sugar and mix well. Add coconut milk, mix again, then last half of sugar. Mix until completely combined to a creamy spreading consistency.

Gently frost cooled cupcakes, leaving a bit of a well in the top where the caramel can pool. Drizzle the frosted cupcakes with cooled caramel, then top with chocolate sprinkles or toasted coconut shavings as desired. I made these small for three reasons: I love tiny baked goods; these are very rich; and smaller servings help my family better control portion size. It’s hard to walk away from half a regular-sized cupcake, but having one or two of the minis feels like plenty.

If you prefer a traditional-sized cupcake, I would estimate baking time at around 25 minutes, but start testing a few minutes before to be sure they don’t dry out. If you want to make this recipe gluten-free, use 2 cups coconut flour (instead of 1 c. coconut flour, 1 c. all-purpose) and add an additional 1 c. of either coconut milk or regular milk; bake and assemble as directed above.

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Just Granola

29 Wednesday Feb 2012

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Granola can be tricky. It is one of those foods that cries out to be made from scratch, but there are so many variations and ingredients out there. I have tried at least a dozen recipes over the years, but I never made any of them more than once. One version had so many seeds, I felt like I was at a bird feeder instead of the breakfast table; the next had enough sugar to qualify as dessert. Then there’s the whole food allergy issue, which leaves me without many dried fruit options. (Almost all dried fruit is sulphured, meaning sulfites are added to help with the preservation process. It’s not really very hard to decide between breathing and eating dried apricots, but it does limit my granola options pretty mightily.)

After so many granola misfires, I finally narrowed down my requirements. I don’t expect my granola to be a portable superfood, substantial enough to nourish me on a three-day hike. I don’t want a multi-tasker — I’m not planning to add it to anything except milk and yogurt. No flax, no wheat germ, no goji berries, no exotic spices. I want something simple, crunchy, toasted, a little sweet, a little salty… just granola.

I think I finally found my recipe this time. It’s from Brunch! by Gale Gand and Christie Matheson. To show you how serious I am, I resisted most of my usual recipe-fiddling ways. I only made two substitutions: dried cherries instead of dried cranberries and clementine juice instead of plain orange. I resolutely kept the door of the spice cabinet closed, and I even measured out my ingredients instead of eyeballing it. My self-restraint was amply rewarded with every simple, tasty bite.

I don’t judge, though. If you are of the fancy granola ilk, more power to you. This recipe could easily handle the addition of cinnamon, ginger, or cardamom, and you could substitute banana chips or raisins for the dried berries. If you crave more texture, try some sesame seeds or sunflower kernels with your chopped almonds. After it cools, add a big handful of chocolate or peanut butter chips, and you’ve got something a little more indulgent that would be a great topping for fruit crisp or ice cream.

To show you how accepting I am, I got a little extravagant with the photos and made a parfait with layers of granola, vanilla Greek yogurt, and orange blossom honey. But between you and me, I gave that one to my daughter to eat. I’ll take mine plain — just granola, please.

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Almond Granola
makes about seven cups

1/2 c. honey
1/2 c. real maple syrup (not corn-based pancake syrup)
1/4 c. fresh-squeezed orange juice
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. almond extract
4 c. old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant or quick cook)
3/4 c. unsweetened shredded coconut (preferably unsulphured)
1 c. chopped almonds
1 tsp. sea salt
1 c. sweetened dried cherries or cranberries

Oven 325F. Combine honey, maple syrup, orange juice, butter, and almond extract in a saucepan and heat over medium heat until butter melts and ingredients come to a boil. Immediately reduce heat and simmer for about five minutes, stirring often, until mixture is slightly thickened.

Meanwhile, mix oats, coconut, almonds, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Pour the hot honey mixture over the oats and stir well to coat thoroughly, then spread evenly on a parchment-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, stirring once. Add dried fruit, stir to combine, then bake for 20 minutes more, stirring a few more times to be sure granola browns evenly. Remove from oven and let cool completely. Break into smaller pieces and store in airtight container for up to two weeks. Can also be frozen for up to a month.

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Pear and Marzipan Pastries

23 Thursday Feb 2012

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I am a little bit obsessed with brunch lately. Brunch has a lot going for it, to my mind. As a confirmed night owl, I am all for breakfast at noon, and inviting people over for brunch feels so much more do-able than homemade waffles for a crowd at 8 AM. Brunch is casual enough to remove the pressure associated with such portentous words as “dinner party,” yet it is still event enough to merit a few new recipes.

For me, brunch is about balance: breakfast and lunch, savory and sweet. This recipe is the perfect brunch candidate in the sweet category. The combination of buttery pastry, tender pears, and the richness of almond paste was inspired by a recipe from Gale Gand’s cookbook Brunch!. If you are joining me on the brunch bandwagon, her recipes are a good companion to have along for the ride. The one caveat might be that she has been an acclaimed pastry chef for so long, she’s a teensy bit out of touch with how things operate in a regular kitchen. (God bless her, it’s not her fault she hasn’t purchased puff pastry from a store in twenty years.)

I have no problem changing ingredients and ratios as I see fit, though; hence the recipe below, which I adjusted in several ways to tame the cloying sweetness of the original. Although a natural for breakfast, these charming little pastry parcels also make an indulgent dessert for a weeknight supper. They take very little time to put together, the most arduous task being peeling and coring a couple of pears. You can use marzipan and almond paste interchangeably here, depending on your preference and pantry. (See the Chewy Almond Macaroon recipe notes for more about both.) I also wouldn’t be opposed to finishing with a drizzle of creme fraiche — but then, would I ever? :)

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Pear and Marzipan Pastries
makes six

14 oz. all-butter puff pastry (one sheet, thawed overnight in refrigerator if frozen)
4 oz. marzipan or almond paste (I use Odense)
1/4 c. cream cheese, softened
2 Tbsp. sour cream (preferably all-natural)
1/4 c. cinnamon sugar (I make mine in batches of 1/2 c. granulated sugar + 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon)
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt
2 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and sliced into about 18 wedges
a dash of freshly grated nutmeg
1 egg
coarse sugar (optional)

Oven 425F. Cut the puff pastry sheet into six squares of about equal size and arrange on parchment-lined baking sheet. Slice the marzipan into six equal portions, then shape each portion into a disc about 2″ wide and 1/2″ thick, and place one disc in the center of each pastry square. In a small mixing bowl, thoroughly whisk together cream cheese, sour cream, lemon juice, salt, and 3 tablespoons of the cinnamon sugar. Place a generous dollop on top of each marzipan round. Top the cream on each pastry with three overlapping wedges of pear, then sprinkle the tops of the pears with the remaining 1 tablespoon of cinnamon sugar and a sprinkling of freshly grated nutmeg.

Carefully gather the four corners of each pastry together at the top and twist them together to form a little parcel with a pastry topknot in the center. (Be sure to press the corners together well enough that they won’t come apart during baking.) Beat the egg in a small bowl, then brush the tops of each pastry lightly with the egg wash. Sprinkle on coarse sugar if desired, then bake for 25-30 minutes, until pastries are puffed and golden. Transfer immediately to cooling rack and allow to cool before eating.

These are fantastic warm from the oven or room temperature. They don’t reheat well, however, so eat them within a day of baking. (That’s not meant as a challenge. ;)

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Ottolenghi’s Green Pancakes with Lime Butter

15 Wednesday Feb 2012

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I have seldom posted a recipe that wasn’t my own on this blog, but I am making an exception. I feel comfortable doing so because A) this recipe already appeared in print in the London Times in 2008; and B) I am posting it entirely to encourage you to buy the author’s cookbook, Plenty. Plenty is the culinary brainchild of London restaurant owner Yotam Ottolenghi, and the considerable press buzz surrounding it is absolutely merited.

Mr. Ottolenghi is Israeli, and his dishes are Med-Rim in flavor, drawing from the culinary heritage of northern Africa, the Mediterranean Middle East, and southern Europe. The recipes are vibrant and modern, sometimes complex but never fussy. Plenty happens to be a vegetarian cookbook, although its author and his eponymous restaurant are not. But this is not the meager, stretched-thin sort of food that outsiders often associate with their herbivorous brethren; instead it is filling, tasty, and somehow indulgent. The recipes can be a meal themselves or co-exist happily alongside meat; Monday night, we sampled Sweet Potato Wedges with Lemongrass Creme Fraiche, and they made a brilliant partner to smoked turkey breast and peppery greens.

I served Plenty‘s Green Pancakes with Lime Butter as part of the spread at our Super Bowl bash, and they were delicious. The original recipe calls only for spinach, but I substituted Organic Girl’s Super Greens, a mix of baby greens that includes red and green chard, spinach, arugula, and tat soi. I also chose to use one large, milder Anaheim pepper instead of two smaller green chiles to control the heat, since I knew some of our guests were not fans of spicy food. Other than that, I stuck stolidly to the recipe and was completely satisfied with the results. These are easily made ahead and warmed just before serving, and the lime butter is equally brilliant over other veggies and fish or chicken. Make this recipe, love it, and then buy the cookbook. :)

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Ottolenghi’s Green Pancakes with Lime Butter
makes a dozen 3″-pancakes, serves 3-4

For pancakes:
8 oz. (about 8 cups) raw spinach or mixed greens, washed
3/4 c. self-rising flour (see Recipe Notes below to make your own)
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 egg
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
1/2 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
1 tsp. ground cumin
2/3 c. milk
6 medium green onions, finely sliced
2 fresh green chiles, thinly sliced
1 egg white
olive oil for frying

For lime butter:
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter (one stick), at room temperature
grated zest of one lime
1 1/2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (that was the juice of one lime in my case)
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
1 Tbsp. chopped cilantro
1/2 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/4 tsp. chile flakes

To make the lime butter, beat butter in small mixing bowl with wooden spoon until soft and creamy. Add rest of butter ingredients and mix well. Tip on to a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment and roll into a sausage shape, then chill until firm.

Wilt the spinach in a saute pan with a splash of water over medium heat. (If using mixed greens, wilting will take a couple minutes more.) Drain in a sieve, and when cool, squeeze hard with your hands to remove as much moisture as possible. Roughly chop and set aside.

Put the flour, baking powder, whole egg, melted butter, salt, cumin, and milk in a large mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the green onions, green chiles, and chopped spinach, and mix well with a fork. Whisk the egg white in a small bowl until it holds stiff peaks, then gently fold into the pancake batter with a silicone spatula.

Heat about a tablespoon of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. For each pancake, ladle in two tablespoons of batter and press down gently. Cook for about two minutes on each side, until golden brown and green. Transfer to paper towels, and continue cooking until all batter is used; you should have about twelve 3″-wide pancakes. To serve, pile up three warm pancakes for each guest and top with a slice of lime butter to melt over the top.

Recipe Notes + Tips:

If you don’t have self-rising flour on hand, mix one cup all-purpose flour, 1-1/4 tsp. baking powder, and a pinch of salt. I place my ingredients straight into a zip-close bag so they are easily mixed and stored. This recipe requires only 3/4 cup of self-rising flour, so you’ll have a little left over for your next recipe.

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Lemon Sugar Icebox Cookies

04 Saturday Feb 2012

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Procrastination and baking do not generally compliment each other, but with this recipe, forgetting your cookie dough for a few weeks before you get around to baking it actually improves the final product. The extra time in the freezer allows the lemon flavor to really infuse and develop, producing buttery, fragrant cookies. The crisp coating of lemon sugar on the outside adds just a hint of crunch, and lemony tart icing drizzled on top completes the citrus trifecta.

Of course, these are wonderful even if you only freeze the dough the minimum one hour. Though these resemble shortbread in appearance, the addition of egg yolk makes for a more tender, less crumbly cookie than traditional shortbread. The dough comes together in a matter of minutes, just the time it takes to zest and juice a few lemons and blitz the ingredients in the food processor. I often double the recipe and keep a log in the freezer, ready to cut and bake for guests.

Not in the mood for lemon? See the Recipe Notes for several more flavor variations, including Orange-Ginger and Mocha-Vanilla. All of them also freeze well after baking — just wait to glaze until right before serving. It’s not often that procrastination is so beautifully rewarded. :)

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Lemon Sugar Icebox Cookies
makes 18 cookies

For cookies:
1 c. all-purpose flour (I prefer King Arthur)
1/2 c. powdered sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
1/2 c. unsalted butter (1 stick), cut into tablespoon-sized pieces
1 Tbsp. + 2 tsp. lemon zest
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 large egg yolk
1/4 c. granulated sugar (for rolling)

For icing:
1/2 c. powdered sugar, sifted
1-2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

In food processor, pulse flour, powdered sugar, salt, and one tablespoon lemon zest until thoroughly combined. Add butter and pulse again until it forms sandy crumbs. Add egg yolks and lemon juice and process until mixture forms a ball of dough. Place dough on a sheet of parchment paper and shape into a log 1-1/2″ in diameter. (Don’t stress if it’s not perfectly round — you’re not looking for something that appears factory-produced, just a uniform shape that will cook evenly.) Fold over ends of parchment and freeze dough for one hour or up to one month. If freezing more than a few hours, place parchment-wrapped dough in a layer of plastic wrap or a zip-seal plastic bag to protect it against freezer burn.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350F. Blitz granulated sugar and remaining two teaspoons lemon zest in food processor until well-combined. Roll frozen dough log in lemon sugar, pressing to achieve a solid, sugary coat. Using a sharp, non-serrated knife, slice into eighteen 1/4″-thick rounds. Place 1″ apart on parchment-lined cookie sheet and bake for 15 minutes, until edges of cookies have just a hint of golden brown and centers are set. Be careful not to over-bake.

Allow to cool on sheet for a few minutes, then remove to rack to cool completely. While cookies cool, mix icing ingredients. Drizzle glaze from the back of a spoon on tops of cooled cookies and serve. Easy-peasy lemon squeezy! :)

Recipe Notes + Tips:
There are endless variations to this recipe using the same quick, basic dough. Try substituting fresh orange zest and juice for the lemon in the cookies and icing, plus add a 1/2 tsp. of ground ginger to the dough. Roll in finely chopped candied ginger before baking, and you have citrusy, spicy Orange-Ginger Icebox Cookies.

For a chocolate treat, trade out a tablespoon or two of the flour for the same amount of unsweetened cocoa and substitute a teaspoon of vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract for the lemon juice in the cookie dough. Roll in chocolate jimmmies before baking and glaze with melted chocolate. For Mocha-Vanilla Icebox Cookies, follow the same directions for the chocolate cookies, but add a teaspoon of espresso powder to the dough and substitute brewed coffee for the lemon juice in the glaze.

The list of possible flavors is limited only by your imagination: Caribbean Coconut-Lime, toasty Butter Pecan, Mexican Hot Chocolate with a kick of cayenne and cinnamon…. There’s really no end to the combinations, just keep the proportions of dry and liquid ingredients the same as the original recipe. I’d love to hear what you come up with! :)

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I linked up this recipe to Fellowship Fridays on

Beef and Sweet Potato Tagine

27 Friday Jan 2012

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Days after this recipe is cooked and devoured, I can still detect the sweet, exotic scent of a Moroccan spice bazaar in my kitchen. Tagine refers to both the North African stew itself and the vessel in which it is traditionally cooked, a triangular-domed ceramic dish that allows steam to circulate and tenderize heavily spiced chunks of meat and vegetables. Fortunately, a modern metal Dutch oven or stock pot will serve just as well, and your stove-top will stand in nicely (if less romantically) for burying it in a heap of burning coals.

This recipe requires a bit of planning ahead since the meat marinates overnight before cooking. It is well worth the extra day. The spice rub recipe makes more than you’ll need for one tagine, and I like to keep some on hand in my spice cabinet. It is fragrant and flavorful in the extreme, and in addition to the traditional stew, I find it makes a beautiful roasting seasoning for chicken or lamb; it also plays well with almost any root vegetable, from potatoes to parsnips. I chose the ingredients based on multiple authentic Moroccan sources, but the ratios and recipe are my own, so feel free to adjust it to suit your own palate and desire for heat.

Moroccans speak both French and Arabic, so bon appetit and bil-hanā’ wa ash-shifā’. (translation: “May you have your meal with gladness and health.” :)

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Beef and Sweet Potato Tagine
makes 3/4 c. spice rub and six generous servings of stew

For spice rub:
2 Tbsp. smoked paprika
1/2-1 tsp. ground cayenne pepper (adjust as desired)
1 good pinch saffron (see Recipe Notes below)
1 Tbsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
2 1/2 tsp. ground coriander
1 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
2 Tbsp. kosher or coarse sea salt

For tagine:
2 lbs. top round or round tip beef roast, cut into rough 1″ cubes
1/4 c. + 1 Tbsp. tagine spice rub
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 small yellow onions, roughly chopped
3 large sweet potatoes, cut into 1″ chunks
1 bunch chard, stems removed and finely chopped, leaves roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger (a thumb-sized piece)
1/4 c. tomato paste
juice of one small lemon
3 c. chicken or beef stock or mushroom broth
1 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. kosher or coarse sea salt

To serve:
naan or other flatbread
chopped cilantro
your favorite chutney
plain Greek yogurt
couscous (tiny pearls of pasta)

In large zip-sealed bag, place beef cubes, 1/4 c. tagine spice rub, and 3 Tbsp. olive oil. Seal and mix well, until beef is evenly coated with oil and spices. Refrigerate at least overnight, ideally a full 24 hours.

When ready to cook, heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil over medium-high heat in large Dutch oven or stock pot. Brown beef in three batches, about 5-6 minutes each, and remove to plate and set aside. If you try to brown it all at once, it will just steam instead of caramelizing. Also, you may need to add another glug of olive oil at the start of each batch if you bought very lean meat. If the bottom of the pan is brown at the end of this stage, no worries, that’s just flavor. If it’s perilously black, that’s burned spices, and you need to give it a rinse before moving on to the next step. (This is one of the drawbacks of using a modern pot instead of a ceramic tagine.)

Once beef is finished and removed to rest, add onions and chard stems to oil already in pot and cook two minutes, then stir in ginger and garlic. Add sweet potatoes and stir, then add tomato paste, lemon juice, stock/broth, honey, extra 1 Tbsp. spice rub, and salt. Add back in browned beef, stir well, and bring to simmer. Then reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for one hour, stirring occasionally. Add chard leaves and cook 20-30 minutes more.

Like most soups and stews, the final cooking time will change depending on the water and fat content of your ingredients. It may be done now, or it may need a few more minutes. It is finished when the beef is meltingly tender, sweet potatoes have almost completely disappeared, and gravy is thick and flavorful. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed, then serve.

I serve my tagine over couscous, topped with plain Greek yogurt and chopped cilantro, with ginger-peach chutney and naan on the side. This is even better the next day, though it seldom lasts that long around here. Recipe is easily doubled or even tripled, just brown meat in more batches and extend cooking time extra half hour (or more as needed) before adding chard. This is a crowd-pleaser, even when the crowd consists of children and folks who usually like milder flavors.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Saffron definitely comes under the heading of, “Who would think of eating that!?” but I am awfully glad someone was more imaginative than I. Saffron is the dried stamen of a crocus flower native to Southwest Asia and is also grown in a few regions around the Mediterranean Sea. It lends food a delicious nutty flavor I love, plus a brilliant, bursting yellow that appeals to my artist’s eye.

Saffron is cultivated and harvested entirely by hand, in a carefully timed, delicate process. It is quite expensive as a result, but a tiny pinch is enough to season several pounds of meat, vegetables, or grains. I buy coupe-grade Spanish saffron on-line from The Spice House, as I do everything else in my spice cabinet; I find their quality and value unmatched. Saffron is definitely a splurge, but it is a beautiful addition to any pantry. (If you don’t have/want any on hand, you can substitute 2 tsp. ground turmeric for the saffron in the tagine spice rub recipe. It will mimic the color and provide a little extra flavor boost.)

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Lamb Ragout

19 Thursday Jan 2012

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When the bad cold going around here caught up with me, I knew exactly what I wanted. This lamb ragout is my ultimate comfort food. The deep, rich flavor of caramelized onions pairs beautifully with savory lamb and lentils and the tang of tomato. If you’ve never tried lamb before (or have but didn’t enjoy it), this is a great place to start. Ground lamb is sweeter and more tender than ground beef, but otherwise it cooks similarly; I much prefer lamb for both flavor and texture in this recipe. I serve mine over buttered basmati rice and sprinkled with tiny cubes of Cotswald, a soft, sharp cheddar flavored with garlic and green onions.

This recipe begins with caramelizing several onions, a simple process that makes the most of their natural sweetness. If you have the time and inclination, make a double batch and store the rest in a jar in the refrigerator for later use. Caramelized onions are one of those transforming ingredients that add a whole new level of complexity and flavor to any sauce, soup, or stew. You can also add a little extra sugar and vinegar and continue to cook down until the mixture condenses into velvety caramelized onion jam. Your grilled cheese sandwiches will thank you. :)

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Lamb Ragout
makes about 4 cups

For caramelized onions:
3 onions, cut in half and then sliced 1/4″-thick
2 Tbsp. olive oil, extra virgin if you have it
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
1 tsp. balsamic or seasoned rice vinegar

For ragout:
caramelized onions from above
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 lbs. ground lamb
1 1/2 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. dried thyme
2 tsp. dried basil
1/2 tsp. cracked brown mustard seed
1 dried bay leaf or 1/2 tsp ground dried bay leaf
1/2 tsp. ground dried rosemary or 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary (see Recipe Notes below)
15 oz. can diced tomatoes, undrained (I like fire-roasted)
1/4 c. tomato paste
3 c. mushroom broth or beef stock
1 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar or 2 tsp. balsamic
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1/2 c. red lentils

To caramelize onions, place oil and butter in saute pan over medium heat. Add onions and cook for 2-3 minutes, until turning translucent, then add salt and sugar. Mix well and cook over medium heat for 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. If onions begin to crisp or brown too quickly, reduce heat to medium-low. Long, slow cooking is the key to good caramelization.

When onions are deep brown and reduced in volume by half, add vinegar to finish and stir well. Turn heat up to medium-high and crumble in ground lamb. Stir well, then add salt, pepper, thyme, basil, mustard seed, bay, and rosemary. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lamb is evenly browned. Drain lamb and onions well, then add remaining ingredients. Stir and simmer 25-30 minutes, until lentils are tender and ragout has thickened. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Serve over buttered long-grain rice and topped with your favorite cheese.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Okay, oddball ingredient #12: ground dried rosemary. I love the fresh, woodsy flavor of rosemary, but I do not enjoy the sensation of eating a Christmas tree. Discovering the Spice House’s ground dried rosemary was one of the biggest light-bulb moments of my culinary life. Say good-bye to the days of tough, pointy rosemary needles and hello to smooth, almost-minty rosemary flavor. I use this stuff on everything from roast chicken to grilled salmon, zucchini to beets. Definitely one of my pantry must-haves.

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(I know broccoli isn’t on everyone’s comfort food list, but it is one of my favorite vegetables, and I couldn’t resist a picture with it on the plate. Just try to appreciate its green-ness for a moment, even if you don’t want to eat it. ;)

Mini Oatmeal Cream Pies

13 Friday Jan 2012

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In the southern United States, Little Debbie Oatmeal Creme Pies are an institution. Growing up overseas, they were one of the foods I craved most during our return visits to Nashville. There was no one happier than little 10-year-old me, smooshed in the back seat of a wood-grain station wagon between suitcases and my little sister, with an Oatmeal Creme Pie in one hand and a glass bottle of Orange Crush in the other.

But when I developed severe preservative allergies in 2007, all things Little Debbie were instantly off-limits. The ingredients in Oatmeal Creme Pies and their other baked goods have sadly grown less natural in the years since the Tennessee bakery started selling desserts out of the back of a car in the midst of the Depression. Turns out they have to spell the filling “creme” because it doesn’t actually contain any real dairy products.

Anyone who knows me knows I don’t give up easily, and I resolved to re-create my childhood treat in a homemade, all-natural, sulfite-free form. This recipe is the result: moist, chewy oatmeal cookies with a hint of cinnamon and the subtle toffee flavor of molasses and turbinado sugar, sandwiched around lightly sweetened, gooey cream cheese filling that makes you want to check whether there’s any left in the bowl. And in a satisfying bit of traveling full-circle, these have turned out to be one of my kids’ very favorite desserts, so much so that my daughter asked for them instead of birthday cake this year. :)

Mini Oatmeal Cream Pies
makes 24 sweet little food memories

For cookies:
1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 c. unsalted butter, softened (2 sticks)
3/4 c. turbinado sugar (see these Recipe Notes for more info)
1/2 c. granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. unsulphured molasses
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 1/4 c. rolled oats (not instant)
1/4 c. shredded, unsweetened coconut (preferably unsulphured)

For filling:
8 oz. cream cheese (preferably all-natural)
1/2 c. confectioner’s sugar, sifted
3 Tbsp. golden syrup (see these Recipe Notes for more info, can substitute light corn syrup or marshmallow fluff)
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)

Oven 350F. In medium mixing bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and cinnamon. In another large mixing bowl, use electric mixer to cream together butter, both types of sugar, molasses, and vanilla until light and fluffy, 4-5 minutes. Beat in eggs one at a time until well-mixed. Stir in flour mixture with a silicone spatula, then stir in oats and coconut. Mix thoroughly until dough is uniform and slightly sticky.

Scoop tablespoons of dough on to lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake about 12 minutes, until edges are set and lightly golden but centers are still a little soft, being careful not to over-bake. Let cookies cool on sheets five minutes, then transfer to racks to cool completely.

For filling, mix all ingredients with electric mixer until creamy and smooth, at least five minutes. Spread a heaping teaspoon of filling on the flat side of one cookie, and then sandwich another on top. (Be generous, there’s plenty.) Refrigerate cookie sandwiches until filling is set before serving, then store in air-tight container in refrigerator for up to five days. They’re even better the second day.

This recipe doubles easily, but you may want to refrigerate the dough between putting batches in the oven because it takes a little while. If you’re feeling extra industrious or are making these for a special occasion, they are especially charming individually wrapped in cellophane.

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