Category Archives: Cook

White Chicken Chili

10 Tuesday Jan 2012

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This recipe was originally born out of the desire to experiment with salsa verde. I love the tang of tomatillos and green chile, and as an added bonus my daughter enjoys it much more than its tomato-based counterpart. As is often the happy way of culinary evolution, it became a vehicle for some of my other favorite ingredients along the way. For me, this dish wouldn’t be same without all the stir-ins: velvety chunks of seasoned avocado, sharp cheddar, sour cream, cilantro, and tortilla chips.

This is a great recipe for entertaining — just prep all the add-ins ahead of time and set it up buffet-style so guests can serve themselves. There is also something appealing about getting to control your own food destiny that makes this approach more kid-friendly. Even if you wouldn’t eat some of the extras individually, I encourage you to try them in this because they bring so much flavor to the party.

White Chicken Chili
makes 10 generous bowls

For chili:
3 cooked chicken breasts or meat from a small rotisserie chicken, cut into bite-size pieces
15 oz. can pinto beans, drained
15 oz. can cannelini beans, drained
7 oz. salsa verde (I use Herdez)
8 oz. canned diced green chiles
4 c. quality chicken stock (I use homemade or Kitchen Basics brand)
2/3 c. heavy cream
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. paprika
1/8-1/4 tsp. cayenne (your preference)
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp. coarse salt + more to taste

For toppings:
2 avocados
juice of half a lime
1 tsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. coarse salt
sour cream
shredded cheddar cheese
1/2 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped
tortilla chips (I am currently best friends with Sweet Potato Tortilla Chips)

In large stockpot, saute onion in oil over medium heat 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and cook one minute more, then add beans, salsa, and green chiles and stir well. Add chicken stock, cream, and all seasonings and bring to simmer. Simmer lightly for 10-15 minutes to allow flavors to come together. Add cooked chicken, stir, and simmer just til heated through. Taste once more for seasoning and add salt and pepper as desired.

While chili is simmering, roughly chop avocados and place in small bowl with lime juice, olive oil, and salt. Mix well and set aside, then prepare other toppings as needed. Serve hot bowls of chili with mix-ins as desired.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
This chili finishes with a thin consistency more like chicken soup than a traditional red beef chili. The melted cheese and sour cream provide some additional texture, and that’s plenty for me. However, if you prefer a thicker chili, there’s an easy fix. At the start of the recipe, add an extra can of cannelini beans. Once you’ve added stock, cream, and seasonings, but before adding chicken, use an immersion blender to puree the beans and create a richer consistency. Continue recipe as above.

If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can carefully transfer the hot soup to a traditional blender, puree, and then return to pot. I love my immersion blender, definitely one of my must-have tools. Like most kitchen appliances, you can easily spend five times what you need to, so shop around. I’ve had my $15 Proctor Silex version for years, and it’s blended everything from butternut bisque to apple butter beautifully.

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Cheesecake Fudge Brownies

08 Sunday Jan 2012

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There are two camps in the brownie world: thick and fudgy, or light and cake-like. If you’re in the light, cake-like crowd, you might want to skip this recipe. (Or you could just make it and be converted. :) These are super dense and chocolaty, but they have the added appeal of swirls of smooth, tangy cheesecake. Top it all with a sweet ganache glaze, and you’ve got a brownie to rule the world.

I discovered by happy accident that the secret to deliciously dense brownies is covering and refrigerating the whole pan for at least three hours before cutting and serving. I am sure it has something to do with the steam created by cooling so quickly, but I just file it under the heading of “kitchen alchemy” and busy myself licking icing off my fingers.

Cheesecake Fudge Brownies
makes 24 brownies

For brownies:
1 c. unsalted butter (2 sticks)
2 1/4 c. granulated sugar
1 1/4 c. unsweetened cocoa, preferably Dutch process
1 tsp. salt (not coarse)
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tbsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract (yes, a tablespoon)
4 eggs
1 1/2 c. all-purpose flour (I prefer King Arthur)

For cheesecake layer:
16 oz. cream cheese, softened
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
2/3 c. granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)

For glaze:
4 oz. heavy cream (1/2 c.)
1/2 c. powdered sugar, sifted
1 heaping cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)

Oven 350F. In a medium, microwave-safe mixing bowl, melt butter in microwave. Stir in sugar with silicone spatula and microwave one minute more. Stir in cocoa, salt, baking powder, and vanilla. Beat eggs lightly in separate small mixing bowl, then add to brownie batter and mix thoroughly. Stir in flour, making sure there’s no lumps or unmixed egg. Pour into a well-greased, glass 9″x13″ glass baking dish and spread evenly with spatula.

In separate medium mixing bowl, use electric mixer with paddle attachment to mix cream cheese and sugar for cheesecake until smooth and creamy. Add eggs, vanilla, and salt and mix thoroughly again. Pour cheesecake batter on top of brownie batter and smooth into even layer. Now use your spatula to swirl the layers together. (They are both very dense, so this isn’t a delicate maneuver — swirl like you mean it. :) Bake for 55-60 minutes until top is lightly golden.

Toward the end of baking time, make the glaze. In a small saucepan, heat all the glaze ingredients over medium-low heat until chocolate chips melt and glaze is glossy and smooth. When brownies come out of the oven, pour on the glaze and smooth into even layer. Allow to cool at room temperature until warm but not piping hot, then place in refrigerator. After a half hour or so, when glaze has set, cover brownies with plastic wrap stretched tightly so it doesn’t touch the top. Allow to cool in refrigerator at least three hours, preferably overnight. (Don’t skip this step — your patience will be rewarded, I promise.)

When brownies are well-refrigerated, cut into 24 pieces. This requires a sharp knife and a slow, steady hand. When you remove the brownies from the pan to serve, just accept that the first brownie will come out a complete wreck. I have never found a way around this, but I admit I haven’t tried very hard. (You should always taste everything you cook before you serve it anyway…) The other 23 will come out fine as long as you take your time.

P.S. — A plate full of these rivals any birthday cake, just stick your candles in the top layer. As my daughter used to say when she was tiny, “Hapty birfday to ME!”

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Come see other yummy desserts joining mine on Sweets for a Saturday on the Sweet as Sugar Cookies blog :)

Creamy Butternut and Sausage Pasta

05 Thursday Jan 2012

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I am not even using the word “squash” in the title of this recipe because it’s not fair. People see that word, and they think baby food: stringy, overcooked, bland… they think “I hate squash.” My 14-year-old son has certainly uttered those words before, and he came back for seconds of this pasta.

Instead of squash, think about the word “butternut.” Now that’s more like it. This pasta is creamy, buttery, smooth, and nutty. A little kick from smoky cayenne amps up both color and taste, and the natural sweetness of butternut (squash) is the perfect foil to the savory garlic and fennel of Italian sausage.

This pasta is also a great way to start the new year, especially after weeks of holiday over-indulgence. This isn’t the kind of food that wreaks of diets and deprivation, but rather the sort we should really be eating every day: balanced, tasty, and nourishing. It is a warming, hearty helping of fiber, vitamins A and C, potassium, and heart-healthy omega fatty acids. You can also opt for turkey Italian sausage and skim ricotta to keep it lower in fat, or add even more fiber and vitamins with whole wheat pasta. I eat it because it tastes good, but I enjoy it more because I know it’s good for me.

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Creamy Butternut and Sausage Pasta
makes 8 servings

2 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1″ chunks
1 1/4 lbs. bulk Italian sausage (mild or spicy based on your preference)
1 lb. rigatoni or other large tube- or shell-shaped pasta
2 tsp. coarse salt + more for pasta water
1 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. cayenne (adjust to preference)
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
3 tbsp. roasted walnut oil (see Recipe Notes, can substitute olive oil)
3 tbsp. real maple syrup (can substitute 2 tsp. turbinado sugar — do not use artificially flavored pancake syrup)
1 tsp. dried thyme (or 2 tbsp. chopped fresh)
1 tsp. dried basil (or 2 tbsp. chopped fresh)
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 c. grated Parmesan or other favorite hard cheese + more for serving
1/2 c. creme fraiche, heavy cream, or ricotta (your choice)
a few ladles of pasta water, about a cup

Oven 425F. In roasting pan, toss squash cubes with walnut oil, maple syrup, salt, pepper, paprika, and cayenne. Roast for 40-45 minutes, stirring once halfway through, until tender and caramelized on the edges.

While squash is roasting, boil pasta in salted water in a large stockpot. (Quick tip: heavily salted water is key to avoiding bland pasta. I use about a tablespoon of coarse salt for every pound of pasta; the finished noodles taste more flavorful, not salty.) Cook for a minute or two less than pasta package directions indicate, as you’ll be cooking it further in the sauce later. I used pipe rigate from World Market, but any large pasta will do. Tube and shell shapes are ideal because in stirring, they stuff themselves with the thick, chunky sauce.

Multi-tasking alert: while the squash is roasting and the pasta is boiling, crumble the Italian sausage in a large skillet and cook on medium-high heat. As sausage begins to brown, add thyme, basil, and garlic and cook two minutes more. Total cooking time will vary depending on water/fat content of your sausage; mine takes about ten minutes. Drain sausage well on paper towels. Finish by feeling generally efficient and handy in the kitchen for doing three things at once. ;)

Reserve a few ladles full of pasta water, then drain pasta and return to pot. (Pasta water already contains starch and salt, which make it the perfect liquid to add to pasta sauce.) Add cooked sausage and roasted squash, including the scented, brilliant orange oil from the bottom of the roasting pan. Stir in Parmesan and whatever you chose as your creamy element (creme fraiche, cream, or ricotta) and warm through over medium heat. Add pasta water as needed to make a rich, creamy sauce; you’ll need more if you opted for ricotta. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as desired. I serve mine with a sprinkling of extra cheese, a mixed green side salad, and a chunk of whole wheat bread.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Have I mentioned lately how much I love roasted walnut oil? It is all the best of walnuts — complex, nutty flavor and a heart-healthy punch of omega fatty acids — without the bitter aftertaste. It goes beautifully with leafy greens, root vegetables, and squash, as well as pork and chicken. You won’t find a better partner for strongly flavored cheeses ranging from Parmesan to Stilton. It is perfection with roasted beets and feta, or added to honey mustard vinaigrette, but its uses are hardly limited to the savory. I love the subtle nuttiness it brings to chocolate cake and banana bread; the scent of a few drops warmed in the pan transforms pancakes and french toast. Roasted walnut oil also compliments fruit, especially citrus.

I use La Tourangelle Roasted Walnut Oil, and it can be purchased at some grocery stores, T.J. Maxx (if you get lucky), the La Tourangelle web site, or in 3-packs on Amazon. Regardless of the brand, I have learned from experience that it is vital that the bottle say “toasted” or “roasted” walnut oil; walnut oil pressed from unroasted nuts has none of the scent, warmth, or flavor.

Roasted walnut oil is one of those pantry-building ingredients that will amaze you with its versatility. It responds well to higher heat, and it can be substituted in equal measure in recipes calling for canola or olive oil. Obviously it should not be eaten by those with nut allergies, and I never make gifts with it unless I have already asked the recipient about food sensitivities/allergies. Assuming that doesn’t apply to you, try it and let me know what you think. :)

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Angela’s Sugar and Spice Pecans

01 Sunday Jan 2012

Posted by in Cook, Think

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It takes courage to cook for me. Severe food allergies can make the kitchen feel like a minefield — it requires a lot of attention to detail on the cook’s part (and a lot of trust on mine) to voluntarily enter this realm of label reading and ingredient monitoring. I love to cook and I love to feed other people, so I can understand that it must be frustrating to my friends and family for me to feel so off-limits when it comes to any kind of culinary care-giving.

This recipe is delicious, but it will always be among my favorites because it’s the first food gift anyone ever gave me after the onset of my food allergies in 2007. Angela certainly knew what she was getting into — she’s seen me through dozens of anaphylaxis episodes over the years and has even had the dubious honor of administering my epi-pen. It takes a real friend to stab you in the thigh with a syringe; it takes an even better one to make you food afterward, when she knows what’s at stake.

These only require a handful of ingredients, but the results are snacking perfection: salty-sweet, satisfyingly crunchy, warm with cinnamon and allspice. They have the added bonus of being gluten-free, sulfite-free, and stress-free. Everyone loves them, even the self-professed nut-haters. (You know who you are.)

For me, this recipe is just the right way to start off the new year because they are all about Possibility. The beautiful thing about hope is that it can bloom so unexpectedly: after a long, dark winter, in the midst of life’s compost. It can even come in the shape of a cellophane bag full of spiced pecans. When you make and share this recipe, I hope you can also share in a little piece of the comfort and faith they represent for me.

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Angela’s Sugar and Spice Pecans
makes 3 cups

1 large egg white
3/4 c. granulated sugar or vanilla sugar (see these Recipe Notes for vanilla sugar how-to)
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
3/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)
3 c. pecans

Oven 250F. In medium mixing bowl, beat egg white with whisk or electric mixer until it holds stiff peaks. In separate small mixing bowl, stir together sugar, salt, cinnamon, and allspice until thoroughly mixed. Fold pecans into egg white until they are coated. Don’t stir too energetically, you don’t want to lose all that air you just whipped into the egg white. Sprinkle in the sugar-spice mixture, stirring until all pecans are thoroughly coated with thick, gooey cinnamon yum. (That’s a very technical cooking term, I know. ;)

Spread out pecans in even layer on large parchment-lined baking sheet. (You can try it without parchment, but butter your baking sheet copiously and get someone else to do the dishes.) Bake for 45 minutes, stirring thoroughly every 15 minutes with silicon spatula to bring the gooey bits to the surface. Add an extra 15 minutes baking time if they are not crispy and dry at the end of the 45 minutes; if your oven doesn’t maintain low temperatures well, it may take longer. Allow to cool on baking sheet completely before eating or storing in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 weeks.

Quick tip: this recipe easily doubles, just use larger bowls to mix and bake for a full hour. If you make more than a double batch, bake on two cookie sheets to be sure your layer of nuts is not too thick.

Prayers and wishes for a healthy, happy, fulfilling 2012 for you and yours. :)

Chocolate-Orange Pound Cake

26 Monday Dec 2011

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Have you ever had a Terry’s Chocolate Orange? It is an orange-flavored chocolate sphere, wrapped in printed foil so it looks like a piece of fruit. Before eating, you thwack it hard against the table so it splits into twenty neat little segments. When I lived in England growing up, it was a Christmas tradition, and for me, December + nostalgia = inventive baking. :)

Enter Chocolate-Orange Pound Cake. It is bright and moist, orange-scented and chock full of mini-chocolate chips. It has a dense, tender crumb and a hint of tart citrus tang in the glaze. Pound cakes are not the simplest to make, but they are worth the effort. This just sings of holidays and making memories for me.

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Chocolate-Orange Pound Cake
makes one Bundt-style cake, two large loaves, or four small loaves

For cake:
1 c. unsalted butter, softened (2 sticks, 8 oz.)
2 1/2 c. granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
3 tsp. orange oil (see Recipe Notes)
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt (not coarse)
5 large eggs
3 Tbsp. espresso powder or instant coffee powder
1/4 c. warm water
1/4 c. milk
1/2 c. creme fraiche or whole-fat sour cream
1 c. unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process)
2 c. all-purpose flour (I prefer King Arthur)
1 c. semi-sweet mini-chocolate chips, plus more for topping glazed cakes (I use Ghiradelli)

For glaze:
1 c. sifted powdered sugar
1/4 c. orange juice powder (see Recipe Notes, can substitute zest of one orange and use freshly squeezed orange juice in place of water)
3 Tbsp. water
1/4 tsp. orange oil

Oven 325F. Cream the butter and sugar with an electric mixer in a medium mixing bowl for 3 minutes, until lighter in color and fluffy. Add vanilla, orange oil, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and beat again for 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time while blending and beat well after each addition. Scrape sides of bowl often with silicon spatula. (Quick tip: it may be tempting to cut short the blending time, but this part is key to a moist, tender pound cake. Your patience will pay off, I promise.)

Dissolve espresso powder in warm water in a small bowl. (Another quick tip: coffee really brings out the best in chocolate; if you don’t have espresso powder, use 1/4 c. dark brewed coffee in place of the warm water.) Whisk in milk and creme fraiche/sour cream. In separate small mixing bowl, whisk or sift together cocoa and flour. Beat this dry ingredient mixture into the batter, alternating in turns with the liquid. Take your time, being sure mixture is thoroughly blended and sides of bowl are scraped after each addition. (Add liquid, blend, scrape; add dry, blend, scrape; repeat… again, totally worth your time.) Your reward will be a homogeneous, fluffy, dense batter, worthy of a tussle over who licks the beaters. Gently stir in the mini-chips with a silicon spatula, being sure to fold in batter from the bottom of bowl to evenly distribute all the little chocolaty morsels.

Pour into well-greased or parchment-lined pans; you have several size options, depending on your needs. This recipe produces 8 cups of batter which can be baked in a 12-cup capacity Bundt-style pan, two 5″x10″ glass loaf pans, or four 4″x7″ small loaf pans. (I used these nifty French Bake-and-Give Wooden Bakers, which come with single-use wooden pans and parchment paper liners; they make for such beautiful gifts.)

Your cooking time will differ based on the container you choose, but approximate times are: one hour, twenty minutes for Bundt; one hour, ten minutes for two large loaves; and one hour even for four small loaves. Watch yours closely and pull them from oven as soon as a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. (Beware the rogue melted chocolate chip which pretends to be raw cake batter; always test twice, just in case. It would be a shame to overcook your cake and waste all that earlier effort.)

Allow cakes to cool 15 minutes in pans on cooling rack, then turn out of pan if desired. (I usually leave cakes in loaf-style pans and just slice in the container before serving.) Allow to cool completely before glazing. To make glaze, whisk ingredients in small mixing bowl until thoroughly blended and smooth. Drizzle over top of cake(s) and then sprinkle liberally with more mini-chocolate chips.

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Recipe Notes + Tips:
The key to getting intense orange flavor in this recipe is the use of orange oil. It is cold-pressed from the peel of the fruit, and it takes about 44 oranges to make each ounce of orange oil. I use Boyajian brand citrus oils; see their site for availability near you, but you can always find it on-line at King Arthur Flour or Amazon. It is absolutely worth having in your pantry.

The glaze in this recipe features a second source of orange flavor in the form of orange juice powder, also available from King Arthur Flour. It is essentially all-natural orange juice in solid, concentrated form. I love the flavor punch you get from such a small amount, but unlike orange oil, it’s really not necessary to have it for the recipe to work. As mentioned above, simply substitute the finely chopped zest of one orange and 3 Tbsp. of freshly squeezed orange juice for the orange juice powder and water. However, if you’re an adventurous cook/eater, I’d encourage you to try out orange juice powder, as well as its compatriots, lemon juice and pineapple juice powders. (I’d also love to hear about any recipe inventions they inspire. :)

Chewy Almond Macaroons

22 Thursday Dec 2011

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Fair warning: only those with a sizable sweet tooth need apply. But somehow these cookies manage to be both decadently sweet and pleasantly light. They look like your average sugar cookie, but then the scent of almond gives away their secret identity. The first bite tells the rest of the story: crispy, crackly edges give way to rich, chewy centers… soon all that’s left is a dusting of powdered sugar on your fingertips and a satisfied smile on your face. And to me, that’s what baking is all about. :)

(I could have easily titled this post Almond Obsession Part 2, since I already indulged myself last week with the Cherry Jam and Almond Cookie Bars. If you’ve seen the light and bought your own case of almond paste, you’re going to love these…)

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Chewy Almond Macaroons
makes 36 cookies

21 oz. almond paste (see cookie bar Recipe Notes for more info)
2 c. granulated sugar
3/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)
4 large egg whites, lightly beaten
1 tsp. almond extract
sifted confectioner’s sugar for topping

Oven 325F. Blend the almond paste, sugar, and salt with electric mixer until well-mixed and crumbly. Add egg whites and almond extract and mix again until the dough is a smooth, sticky paste. Using two spoons, scoop the dough by heaped tablespoons on to lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheets. Leave two inches between each, as cookies will spread quite a bit.

Generously sift powdered sugar over the tops of each little mound of cookie dough. (I love this part — it looks like a little snow-topped mountain range.) Use three fingers to press each cookie a little flatter. Bake for about 20 minutes, until edges are lightly browned and crispy. Remove from oven and allow to cool in the pans, then eat one and transfer the rest to an airtight container. :)

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Many Americans associate macaroons with coconut, but the term macaroon (from the French macaron) refers to any cookie which uses ground nuts and egg white as binding agents instead of flour and whole eggs. Although macaroons include ground nuts or sweetened nut pastes for the body of the cookie, flavors can range from berry to citrus, chocolate to coffee.

Macaroons are super simple to make and are a great gluten-free alternative. This recipe easily halves or doubles, and the cookies can be frozen, well-wrapped, for up to three months. My thanks for recipe inspiration go to King Arthur Flour yet again, this time for their bakery’s Almond Bianchi cookies.

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Cherry Jam and Almond Cookie Bars

16 Friday Dec 2011

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I may be slightly more enamored of almonds than the average person. (Doesn’t everyone buy Odense almond paste in bulk?) But you don’t have to be an almond devotee to appreciate these deliciously dense, chewy cookie bars. Cherries and almonds play very well together, and this recipe makes the most of their complimentary flavors. These are nutty and buttery, just the right blend of salty and sweet. I prefer tart cherry jam for the filling, but you can easily substitute raspberry or apricot. Unlike most cookie bars, these are even more moist in the days after baking, and you won’t find a better partner for a hot cup of tea. Case of almond paste, anyone? :)

Cherry Jam and Almond Cookie Bars
makes 32 cookie bars

3/4 c. unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks)
7 oz. almond paste (about 3/4 c., see Recipe Notes)
1 c. granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. almond extract
1 egg
3 c. all-purpose flour (I prefer King Arthur)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt (not coarse)
12 oz. sour cherry jam (I use Favorit brand)
1/2 c. sliced almonds
2 Tbsp. coarse sugar (optional)

Oven 375F. Beat softened butter, almond paste, and sugar in electric mixer until well-blended. Add egg and extracts and mix again until thoroughly combined. In separate medium mixing bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir dry mixture into wet ingredients with rubber spatula until uniformly mixed. Dough will be crumbly.

Reserve 1 1/2 c. dough and use your hands to press the rest into the bottom of a 9″x13″ buttered glass baking dish. Warm jam in microwave one minute and then spread over cookie base. Pat the reserved dough into rounds approximately 1/2″ thick and 3″ across, then place on top of jam. (There will be spaces between the dough rounds where the jam shows through.) Sprinkle top evenly with sliced almonds, then coarse sugar, and bake 26-28 minutes until top is lightly browned. Cool completely before cutting into 32 squares.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Almond paste is a blend of ground almonds and sugar syrup, usually about 45% almonds. You can make your own, but for this recipe, packaged almond paste is perfectly fine. I find all the large grocery stores in our area stock almond paste in the baking aisle, but you can also buy it on-line. I buy it in bulk on Amazon.com, but dozens of other sites sell it.

Quality almond paste should only include almonds and sugar, never any preservatives or flavorings. One note: marzipan is almost identical to almond paste, but with fewer almonds and more sugar. It will serve in most recipes in place of almond paste, although the results will be sweeter and a tad less moist. (However, in one important way, they are entirely the same: I could happily eat either one by the tube. :)

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Vanilla Bean Butterballs with Chocolate Ganache

12 Monday Dec 2011

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It takes a lot to trump the perfect chocolate chip cookie, but these just might do it. Little nuggets of soft, buttery shortbread sandwiched around creamy chocolate, covered in the warm, sweet crunch of vanilla sugar… forget sugarplums, I’ve got visions of butterballs dancing in my head. ;)

A pile of these make a delicious gift, whether birthday, holiday, or hostess. And although they are sugar-coated show-stoppers, the recipe is actually quite simple — only seven ingredients and a bit of planning involved. My fourteen-year-old just made his first solo batch for a local cookie contest (he won), and he seconds my infatuation. Can cookies sparkle? I think these might…

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Vanilla Bean Butterballs with Chocolate Ganache
makes 18 sandwich cookies

For shortbread:
1 c. unsalted butter, softened (2 sticks)
1/2 c. granulated sugar
1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract
about 2 c. vanilla sugar for rolling (see Recipe Notes below)

For chocolate ganache filling:
4 oz. quality semi-sweet chocolate (I like Ghiradelli or Scharffen Berger)
1/3 c. heavy cream
1/4 tsp. salt (not coarse)

With the whisk of an electric mixer, beat the butter until soft and fluffy, about three minutes. Add granulated sugar, salt, and vanilla, and mix again until well-blended. Stir in the flour by hand until it forms a soft dough. Shape dough into a disc, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 3 hours, up to a week.

Working with well-chilled dough, break off teaspoon-size piece and roll into 36 balls about 3/4″ across. (Making them uniform in size is more important than their exact diameter.) Place balls on wax/parchment-paper lined plate and freeze for 30 minutes. While they are in the freezer, make the chocolate ganache for the filling.

Place chocolate, cream, and salt in small pan over medium heat, stirring. Remove from heat as soon as chocolate melts and combines with cream into a glossy mixture. Transfer ganache to a bowl and refrigerate until the consistency of thick pudding. (It needs to be stiff enough to hold your cookie sandwiches together.)

Preheat oven to 375F. Place balls of chilled dough about two inches apart on cookie sheets and bake 10-12 minutes. Cook just until set but not browned. While cookies cool on baking sheets, place vanilla sugar in a shallow bowl for rolling. To assemble, put a smear of ganache on the flat bottom of one cookie, then place another on top. Roll in vanilla sugar until well-coated. I refrigerate mine for at least a half hour afterwards to be sure they are well-stuck, but they can be stored at room temperature after that. (You can also sandwich these with raspberry jam, but the exclusion of chocolate from a recipe is frowned upon by my household…)

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Although you can certainly roll these in plain sugar, I love the added flavor and scent that comes from using vanilla sugar. To make your own, just slice a vanilla bean length-wise and add it to four cups of granulated sugar in an airtight container; wait two or three weeks before using, and whenever you think about it, shake the container to evenly distribute the vanilla. As you use it, add more plain sugar to the container to maintain your supply.

Vanilla sugar is a fantastic addition to your pantry, and there’s no end to its uses: add a teaspoon to your morning tea or coffee; sprinkle it over oatmeal or cream of wheat; give plain yogurt a flavor-boost or blend it into your favorite smoothie; add depth to baked goods from blueberry muffins to lemon bars to apple pie; make a jar of vanilla-cinnamon sugar to use on snickerdoodles, as a topping on grilled peaches, or to caramelize figs… did I mention there’s no end to its uses? :)

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This recipe is adapted from one in Gale Gand’s 2006 cookbook Chocolate and Vanilla. As you might guess from the title, half the recipes are chocolate-focused and the other half vanilla, and all of them I’ve tried are delicious. (Clarkson Potter: 2006, ISBN 978-0307238528)

Clementine-Scented Vanilla Caramels

05 Monday Dec 2011

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caramels1

Things I learned the hard way:
1. Never put on eye make-up while you have the hiccups.
2. If you promise to have six dozen sugar cookies ready in a few weeks, write that down somewhere.
3. You shouldn’t leave a two-year-old alone with a palette of watercolors, even if you think she can’t possibly reach them.
4. Turns out there is such a thing as too much Worcestershire sauce.
5. There are a LOT of ways to mess up homemade caramel.

I learned that last one this weekend after much sugary carnage. I realize now that the key to exquisite caramel is equal parts butter and patience. As you read through the recipe, you might notice I say “stir constantly while simmering for 45 minutes.” That’s not a typo — I really mean three quarters of an hour. My family graciously took stirring shifts, but a half hour in, my husband declared we were never making homemade caramels again. Fast-forward another half hour to his first taste, and that was quickly revised to, “I’m available to stir anytime.” :) These really are just ridiculously, achingly buttery and tender; sweet without being cloying, with a delicate citrus scent from clementine zest steeped in the cream. I foresee many happy hours of stirring ahead.

caramels2

Clementine-Scented Vanilla Caramels
makes 196 dreamy little bites

2 c. granulated sugar
1 c. turbinado or demerara sugar (can substitute packed light brown sugar)
1 c. golden syrup (read more about golden syrup in my Peanut Butter Hot Fudge Sauce Recipe Notes, can substitute light corn syrup)
1 c. evaporated milk
2 c. heavy cream
1 c. unsalted butter (2 sticks) plus more for baking sheet
2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or real vanilla extract (see Recipe Notes)
zest of six clementines (or 2 oranges if clementines unavailable)
1 tsp. coarse kosher or sea salt
10″ x 15″ baking sheet, at least 1″ deep
heavy-duty aluminum foil (regular-strength foil will stick to caramels)
wax paper
candy thermometer

Thoroughly butter a baking sheet lined with heavy-duty aluminum foil. In a large pot, mix evaporated milk, cream, and clementine zest. Cook on low until barely simmering, then remove from heat. Let mixture sit for 10 minutes more, then strain out zest.

Now add both types of sugar, golden syrup, butter, and salt to the cream in the pot. If you’re using vanilla bean paste, add it now; if using vanilla extract, wait to add it until caramel is finished cooking. (See Recipe Notes to find out why.) Attach your candy thermometer to the side of the pot, being sure the probe does not touch the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, then simmer the ingredients over medium-low heat, stirring constantly for approximately 45 minutes, until thermometer reads 248F.

When thermometer reaches 248F, immediately remove pot from heat. (If using vanilla extract, now is the time to add it.) Very carefully pour the hot caramel on to the buttered, foil-lined baking sheet. (The care is to protect you, not the caramel.) Let the caramel sit until cooled, about two hours. Now would be a good time to cut out the 190-ish pieces of wax paper you’ll need to wrap your caramels. For this recipe, cut your paper wrappers about 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″. Your stirring helpers might also be persuaded to assist here.

Flip the cooled caramel slab out on to a piece of parchment or wax paper and gently remove foil. With a sharp, buttered knife, cut into 14 rows and 14 columns, for a total of 196 little rectangles. Wrap each piece in wax paper and twist the ends to seal. This is another lesson in patience brought to you by homemade caramels, but it’s not as bad as it sounds. I got into a good rhythm and wrapped mine in about an hour. (I also wound up with a half dozen less caramels to wrap, thanks to an innovative self-motivation scheme… ;)

These will keep at room temperature for two weeks easily, but they’ll never last that long.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
This is not the first time I’ve mentioned vanilla bean paste, and I am in love with the stuff. It is another ingredient I discovered by necessity after developing food allergies; since traditional flavor extracts are alcohol-based, they are off limits for those with sulfite allergies. Vanilla bean paste is alcohol-free, which means its flavors do not change with cooking and it’s more palatable in uncooked applications like icing. It has the consistency and sweetness of a thick syrup, and it contains real vanilla beans. It can be used teaspoon for teaspoon in place of vanilla extract, but the paste is much more warm and flavorful and gives your food that beautiful vanilla bean-flecked look. (Feast your eyes on the caramel frosting on these cupcakes.) I use Nielsen-Massey vanilla bean paste, and you can check out their web site for where to buy.

Final caramel words of experience: the caramel will triple in size before boiling back down, so trust me when I say to use a large pot. I know 45 minutes seems like a long time, but the rise in temperature needs to be slow to avoid scorching the sugar, so don’t try to cook it over higher heat to speed up the process. You will notice a steady rise in temperature until about 223F; from then on, the water is boiling out, so the process of achieving the next 25 degrees takes longer than the initial 223 did. (That’s science for you.)

Two-by-Two Beef Stew

01 Thursday Dec 2011

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beefstew

This time of year makes me want to cook hearty, filling food that nourishes and warms. For me, beef stew is the perfect dinner when the skies have been gray and cold for days. This is comfort food at its best — comforting to cook and to eat. About the title: the recipe is one I invented over time, without thought of measurements or ratios. When I finally decided to measure out ingredients and write it down, I discovered that everything was in multiples of two. The fact that a creative process aimed entirely at making something good to eat should result in an inherently ordered pattern seems a kind gesture on creation’s part. :)

The name is also a good reminder that this is the perfect recipe for sharing. It makes a generous twelve servings, so bless someone with a home-cooked meal. It seems obvious to make dinner for a family with a new baby or a neighbor just home from the hospital; but I’d wager we can all think of someone who could use a little love right now. Moms of teenagers need just as much care as those with newborns, and a hot meal at the end of a long work day is just as welcome as one at the end of a sick day.

Two-by-Two Beef Stew
makes 12 generous servings

2 c. roughly chopped carrots (about 6)
2 c. roughly chopped celery (peeled, about 5 stalks)
2 c. roughly chopped yellow onion (2 small or 1 large)
2 c. roughly chopped mushrooms (I prefer shitake caps)
2 c. roughly chopped rutabaga (peeled, 1 small or 1/2 large, see Recipe Notes)
4 c. roughly chopped red potatoes (unpeeled, about 6 medium)
2 lbs. trimmed beef stew meat (leaner is not better in this case)
2 c. beef stock
2 c. mushroom or vegetable broth
2 c. + 2 Tbsp. water
1/2 c. all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. + 2 tsp. coarse sea salt
2 tsp. ground black pepper
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. dried thyme (or 2 Tbsp. fresh)
2 tsp. dried basil (or 2 Tbsp. fresh, chopped)
2 tsp. ground brown mustard seed (read more about it in Recipe Notes for Ham + Chard Tart)
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. cornstarch

Heat olive oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. While it’s warming, toss beef in flour, two teaspoons of the coarse salt, and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. (The flour helps the beef brown and starts the stew’s thickening process.) Cook beef until brown, about five minutes. Add all vegetables, garlic, remaining salt and pepper, thyme, basil, mustard seed, tomato paste, stock, broth, and two cups water. Stir well until thoroughly combined. Allow to come to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer covered for 1 1/2-2 hours, until vegetables and meat are tender.

In last five minutes of cooking time, whisk together the cornstarch and remaining two tablespoons water in a small mixing bowl — this is to finish thickening the stew. Add to hot stew while stirring constantly. Continue to stir and simmer until stew is thickened, then turn off heat. Now is the time to taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Allow stew to sit ten minutes or so, until it’s no longer molten, and serve with slices of fresh bread or hot, buttered biscuits.

I don’t actually own a Crockpot (I am the slow cooker around here ;), but this seems like the kind of recipe that would be well-suited to it. If you try it out that way, please post in the comments and let me know how it goes.

Recipe Notes + Tips:
Besides being a really fun word to say, rutabagas are pretty yummy in soup, stew, and stock. They are a hybrid cross between cabbage and turnips, though I am convinced a little horseradish joined the party at some point. They share the crispness of green cabbage, but with less of that sulfurous twang. They have a little bite when raw, but that’s largely mellowed on cooking. If you haven’t ever tried one, this is your chance, as they are in season and at their best right now. (And no, this message was not paid for by the National Rutabaga Farmers Association. :) If you prefer, you can substitute the same amount of roughly chopped parsnips or just add more potatoes. I would still say the word “rutabaga” out loud a few times though.